Plank-to-frame screw angle

My Dad and I are finally to the point of installing the side planking on our Skippy Jr restoration but have a question about the angle of the plank-to-frame screws. We have two choices:

  1. Run the screw down the centerline of the frame. This would be the least likely to “break-out” or split the frame or strip the screw but the drill hole and counterbore for the bungs will be at an angle relative to the plank face causing the finished bungs to appear as an ellipse.
  2. Run the screws 90° to the plank but at an angle to into the frame. This would look the best but be more risky that we will have screwing problems.

This is not an issue on 75% of the frames but the forward 2 or 3 frame stations have a pretty significant angle where this is an issue.

Thanks for your help

What type of boat is skippy jr. Have photos?

Skippy Jr is a 1940 23’ Triple Forward Yandt. It was built by my great uncle on the very grounds that the infamous Coeur d’Alene Resort sits on today. It was patterned after a 1939 Garwood Streamliner. You and Texx did an awesome story about it a million years ago titled “What are the chances” or something to that effect.
“Do I have pictures?” you ask…If you asked that question to my daughters they would reply “He has more friggin pictures of that boat than of his own kids” or something to that effect. Here is a link to my blog. Skippy Jr Restoration

This picture was taken in August of 1950 when Skippy Jr was being used as a taxi/mail boat on Lake Coeur d’Alene.

Dad and I have been working on this restoration for about 10 yrs and it has been an unbelievable experience. It is amazing to me how the story of this old boat has been painted as we have gone along. When we started we really didn’t know much about her. We had the chance to talk to a 93 year old guy that was the skipper for this boat for years working for his brother. Sorry. I can go on an on.


Crap! I know it all… ha. With your name as skippy jr I didn’t know it was you!!! Ugh. I am too sure on an answer. I was more wondering about the area that you are refuting too, so someone with a brain could give you good advice.

Ha. I was operating incognito. : )

This post was kind of spur of the moment so i don’t have any photos of the specific issue. I will get some and post soon.


It was a great question

See if this helps.

BTW this is a test to see if my Danenberg friends are lurking here. I used to ask these kinds of question on his forum all the time. For armatures that platform was essential.


How were the fasteners driven in originally?

We can’t remember and we cored the screws out to get the planks off so the evidence is gone

I would run them in squarely into the frames for the reasons you stated. I don’t think the bungs being a little elliptical will be too noticeable.

I agree, I would always choose structure and strength. The rest is cosmetic, and have certanly seen many bungs like that

Wooden boat magazine had an article About screws that also addressed your question I’ll try to take a look and see if I’ve got the article somewhere

Not sure if the upload of the photograph is working it’s a two-part series from wooden boat magazine by Ed McClave every professional shop and every amateur restore should have this pin to the wall of their shop I’ve used this is my go to for a long time

Matt is there a way for you to post this in a reference section of this page

We once tried “just” cutting the bung holes through the plank and then driving a slightly smaller pilot drill at the proper angle into the frame.
Thank goodness we were using scrap lumber to test this “solution”!

We now cheat ever so slightly and run them directly into the frames, but split the difference between the two angles. Yes, the bung faces are ever so slightly elliptical, but I challenge anyone who wants to to identify which bungs we’ve cheated on.
We have yet to hear an “OMG! What did you do?”

Maybe. Hows that for an answer. I do have some things in the works that will organize stuff. Like a reference section, or posssibly ? It could be endless

Thanks Michael. That is what we are going to do. Sometimes we can’t see the forest for the trees.

Well, the forest can and does close in around us all too often.


Thank you Tom!! This is exactly what I wanted to see. In fact, a bonus was the paragraph on “Proper Clearance Holes.” I was talking about this with the guys at Fuller the other day and found out that they sell short, normal and long taper bits for their counter sink bits. i ordered some shorts for the 3/4" long screws that we have always had to drill out in an extra step to keep from splitting out the planks. WoooWhoooo!!! i’m excited to start screwing.

Now to find a copy of this magazine(Wooden Boat #54 and 55) so i can pin this on the wall of the shop.