The “M” has been running great all summer. After two weeks of not being run I went to start it and at first it fired up but then died. Started again, ran briefly, died and then nothing. Turns over fine but won’t start even with starting fluid [not even a cough]. Changed the points, cap, plugs and condenser with no results. Fuel bowl is full and primed. Any ideas?
In addition, while I was changing the points this blue spacer fell out from somewhere. Pretty sure it’s not part of the assembly but want to confirm. Also please review the installation of the new points. Shouldn’t the spring wire from the points be isolated from the distributor housing?
When you spin it over with the ignition on. Do the points spark? If not do you have power to the positive side of the coil? If not. Do you have power coming out of the i terminal of the ignition switch? If not. Do you have power going into the battery terminal of the ignition switch?
The tube supports the rail that the spark plug wires travel thru.
Jim! You are the man! I dont have an answer but sure feels like electrical. May sound dumb… but is the coil plug wire in the dist cap snug?
Thanks Jim - I will start checking electrical connections today. I pretty much knew that the blue painted tube probably was from the spark plug wire rail but being that I wasn’t missing one it had me wondering.
I did check the spark plug wires to make sure they were snug - been there done that before!
Ok - This morning I checked the wiring and I have power from the switch to the positive side of the coil but while spinning the engine I don’t see any spark at the points. Also the coil was hot to the touch without much activity so I’m assuming the coil has gone bad. I will switch this out and see if I get any better results.
I had replaced the coil five years ago with a Napa IC14 - is this still the correct coil?
Sounds like maybe the coil bought the farm? Dead coil = no spark at the plugs.
Have you checked for a spark at a plug?
Is the oil on your dipstick at all milky? I’m f so, you may have manifold or head issues.
No spark at the plugs. I am going to pick up a new coil tomorrow so hopefully that takes care of the issue.
Fortunately the oil is normal!!!
Coil is a good call, especially if it was warm. I have had issues with some electrical stuff from NAPA, and even they told me Marine use can be extra harsh on that sort of stuff.
While researching coils it was noted in a classic car forum that once the ignition is turned on they start generating electricity with nowhere for it to go until the engine is started which will heat them up. Based on this it was recommended not to leave the ignition on until you are ready to start.
Nope - not the coil. Replaced with a new one and still dead. Taking a deep breath and on to the next thing.
Put a test light on the stud where the wire from the coil connects. Spin engine over with key on. It should flash.
More then likely what’s happened is the stud is grounding out on the distributor housing. There should be a fiber washer then a fiber tube and then a fiber washer to insulate the stud from the housing. Also there is a gasket material that goes around the stud then out behind the point spring. To keep the point spring from grounding out.
If your running a 12volt system and since you have the small distributor the best thing to do is go to a pertronix igniter kit.
Jim - I will definitely check this out as you may be onto something here. The distributor is pretty old so I’m not sure on the condition of the isolators.
I took the post off the distributer and from the outside in I found [2] metal nuts and washers, a small fiber tube that the post ran through in the housing, a piece of metal formed to match the inside of the dist. that the points spring rubbed against, a cork washer, a square metal washer and then the square end of the post. The fiber tube and cork washer make sense as isolators and I need to get a fiber washer for the metal nut on the outside of the dist. I can’t quite figure out the formed metal piece that went between the points spring the the interior of the dist. housing. Any ideas?
That piece of metal is the problem. It supposed to be a piece of thick formed gasket material. Not only did it go around the bolt. It had a flap on the bottom to lay on top of the points plate. Also the insulating washers and tube were phenolic resin.
It also looks like your missing a couple of pieces. I used to have some nos rebuild kits for that.
That whole set up is why I would put a pertronix kit in it. Then you eliminate all these pieces that can cause problems.
All my customers boats are running them and have been for years.
Weird - That metal strip looks like it’s been in there for decades. I will explore the Pertronics.
You want number 1568.
Amazon has them.
Standing ovation for Mr JimG! You are a saint.